Thursday, June 01, 2023

A French recipe and an Italian one—and not a lot of difference

 


It’s summer, and my thoughts run to cold soup (nobody here will eat it), main dish salads, and sandwiches, both of which are popular with my family. I was searching my recipe file for something to fix for one of my “eat everything but the unusual is best” friends and came across these two tuna recipes, one French and one Italian. I was struck by how similar they are. Both call for tuna, though I used salmon in the pan bagnat, simply because I had more canned salmon than tuna. And I adapted both to my taste, which means no peppers and no olives. Feel free to add. In fact, feel free to add almost anything you want—these recipes are more guides than specific directions.

In my Irene in Chicago Culinary Mysteries, Irene boasts a faux French background, even including culinary training from Le Cordon Bleu. She loves all things French, despises Italian cooking. Perhaps these two sandwiches would make her rethink that.

Italian tuna sandwich (serves two)

For the sandwich:

A small baguette or crusty bread (not the skinny baguette with no room for filling)

Lettuce

7 oz can high quality chunk tuna

2 hardboiled eggs

Salt and pepper

For the salsa verde:

I packed cup Italian parsley

½ cup olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

2 anchovy filets

1 Tbsp. small capers

Zest from 1 lemon

Salt and pepper

Olives (optional), chopped

Serrano chile (optional), sliced

To make the salsa verde, blend parsley and olive oil into a paste. Remove to a small bowl and add remaining ingredients. Mix well. If it is too thick to spread easily, add more olive oil, a bit at a time.

Split the baguette lengthwise and cut into two equal portions (if the baguette is large, you do not have to use the entire thing—cut into two servin size pieces). Spread salsa verde on both cut sides of the bread. Then on one side layer sandwich ingredients. Top with chile if using. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle remaining salsa over ingredients, and top with second piece of bread. Press down firmly. Serve immediately.

Pan bagnat is a French classic, usually made with tuna but can also be made with just the eggs and anchovies or salmon or whatever strikes your fancy. The beauty of this sandwich is that it gets better with age—it should be made at least several hours before you serve and can be refrigerated for up to twenty-four hours. Ideally it is made in an 8-inch, round loaf to serve two, but you may also use a baguette or other crusty artisan bread.

Pan bagnat

2 anchovy fillets

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tsp. red wine vinegar

½ tsp. Dijon mustard

2 Tbsp. olive oil

Pepper to taste

Round loaf or baguette

½ cucumber, preferably seedless, thinly sliced.

1 tomato, sliced

1/2 small red onion, sliced

7 oz. tuna

1 hardboiled egg

Sliced olives (optional)

Basil leaves for garnish

Slice bread in half lengthwise and pull out some of the soft interior. Save discarded bread for another use, such as croutons.

In a bowl, thoroughly blend first four ingredients and then slowly whisk in the olive oil. Toss the sliced cucumber in the mixture. Brush both cut sides of the bread with the vinaigrette.

On the bottom slices of bread, layer half the cucumbers. Top, in layers, with remaining ingredients. Finish with remaining cucumbers and pour remaining vinaigrette over all. Cover with top slice of bread and press down firmly. Wrap sandwich tightly in foil and then put in a plastic bag. Refrigerate, weighted down. The easiest way to do that is to place a small skillet on top of the sandwich and add one or two canned goods. Refrigerate for up to 24 hours before serving. Anchovy flavors will soak into the bread, creating a delicious treat.

Bon Appetit/Buon Appetito! See? Even the languages are similar. We’ll never convince Irene.

 

 

 

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