Traditional Borscht
Our country and the entire world—well, most of it—is reeling in horror at
pictures coming out of Bucha, the suburb of Kyiv recently retaken by Ukrainian
forces and abandoned by would-be Russian conquerors, who left behind a trail of
atrocities—a mass grave, bodies lying in the street, many with their hands tied
behind their backs and a gunshot to the head. If you have any memories of the
Holocaust, the pictures take you back to the end of WWII when Nazi atrocities
were revealed.
Americans are quick to support some oppressed (not so much Central Americans at our southern border, but that’s another subject), and so we have been with Ukraine. No, I’m not talking about President Biden’s amazing success at uniting much of the civilized world to sanction Russia while avoiding WWIII. I’m talking about the kind of bandwagon cheering at which we are so good. I’m back in my pajamas by now, but this picture is the shirt I wore all day—I bought it because I love the brightness and the colors. But mostly I bought it because I too want to support Ukraine.
There
are so many charities asking for funds to do good work in Ukraine that it can
be a bit misleading, and there are scams out there. Several sites profess to
protect domestic animals left behind, but one I saw the other day was highly
suspicious—all the dogs looked like. One that I trust is the World Central
Kitchen which has been feeding Ukrainian refugees who cross the border into
Poland. Chef José Andres has now taken his kitchens, under protection, to Bucha
to feed survivors. Docs Without Borders is reliable—those people go into the
thick of the fighting to provide medical care. Still another charity in which I have faith is UNICEF, and I read a
fascinating article today about two London women—one Ukrainian, one Russian—who
have combined their skills to create #Cook for Ukraine to support UNICEF. Here’s
the link to an article about them, if you can get beyond the paywall, The
Ukrainian and Russian Chefs Cooking for Ukraine | The New Yorker, and here’s
their website: Cook
For Ukraine is fundraising for Unicef UK (justgiving.com). All proceeds go
to the UNICEF Ukraine appeal to support women and children.
Alissa
Timoshkina, originally from Russia, and Olia Hercules, raised in southern
Ukraine with her family still there, suggest that those who want to help can host
supper clubs or bake sales featuring Ukrainian foods with donations suggested. Share
recipes and pictures online with the hashtag, #CookforUkraine. There’s an
online form for registering your event and an online link to donate.
Cooking
Ukrainian recipes is especially meaningful as we approach Easter, because the
country is known for its delicately decorated eggs. There’s a special Easter egg
cheese—hrudka—and Easter bread--paska. Search CookforUkraine and you’ll find a
wealth of recipes. Maybe the first thing that comes to your mind is borscht--you’ll
find several recipes. I have always wanted to make pierogi because I am
fascinated with the small hand pies from several cultures. Pierogi are the Ukrainian/Russian
version, often stuffed with seasoned cheese but sometimes with meat or mushrooms.
Another dish traditionally associated with Ukraine is stuffed cabbage—it’s not
as hard as you might think and is delicious. And desserts—oh my, do the
Ukrainians know how to cater to a sweet tooth. Cakes of all kinds, napoleons,
babka, honey cake. Honey cake
If I weren’t cooking for strict traditionalists, I think I’d do a Ukrainian Easter dinner. Pierogi for an appetizer, borscht for a soup course stuffed cabbage as the entrée, accompanied by kapusta (sauerkraut and peas) and a grand dessert of a honey cake built like a napoleon—lots of thin layers. Of course, it would take me a kitchen staff to prepare this.
I’m sure
Ukraine offers recipes for Passover too, because there is a substantial Jewish
population. And if you’re thinking, wait a minute! Borscht is Russian, you’re
right. There is a big cultural overlap between Russia and Ukraine, and it
includes food. Of the two cooks sponsoring #CookforUkraine, the Russian one has
a Ukrainian grandmother, and the Ukrainian native has a Russian grandmother. So
sad to see two countries, who share so much, at war with each other—or really
the bigger one bullying the smaller, at a horrible cost of life. Let alone the
massive destruction of structures, fields and farms.Golumpki - stuffed cabbage
We are
all going to feel the effects of the destruction in that country—higher prices
on grain, for just one example. So cheer for the people of Ukraine and pray for
them. And cook for them!
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